Cropped close-up
For the second shot I added my diffuser and opened up the aperture by 1 stop to correct the exposure. This time the shadows appear soft and shallow, this gives a much more flattering appearance to the photograph and reveals more detail in the scene. Diffusion is definately an improvement.
Cropped Close-up
The photographs below show the effects of lighting a model from different angles. The model is my extremely patient girlfriend, Lindsay Wilson. First I positioned my flash unit, camera and model all at the same level. To ensure that I correctly exposed my photographs I used my flashmate light meter aimed towards the flash unit and as close to Lindsay as possible before taking each shot. I also had my camera on a tripod at all times and used my portrait lens with a fixed focal length of 50mm.
Front Lit
Lit directly from left
Directly from right
Right and behind
Left and behind
Directly behind
Next I positioned my flash unit so it was angled at approximately 45 degrees towards my model.
Lit from the front and slightly raised
Left and slightly raised
Right and slightly raised
Right, behind and slightly raised
Left, behind and slightly raised
Behind and slightly raised
Behind, slightly raised and overexposed
I took this photograph by accident but have added it purely because I like it.
For my third set of images I positioned my flash unit above my model.
Lit from infront and above
Directly above
Behind and above
After experimenting with different angles I decided to play around with diffusers and reflectors. For each photograph I kept my flash unit 3 feet away from my model.
For the first three photographs I had an umbrella diffuser attached to my flash unit.
No reflector
White card reflector 3 feet on right hand side
Reflector 1 foot on right
For the next three photographs I removed the diffuser.No reflector
White card reflector 3 feet on right
Reflector 1 foot on right
Next I decided to try some aluminium foil as a reflector to see if it gave a better shadow fill than white card. For photograph the foil is positioned 2 feet away on the right hand side.
Dull side of foil
Shiny side of foil
Crumpled shiny side
Last but not least, to increase contrast I used a piece of black card to absorb as much light as possible on the right hand side.
Light 4 feet on left + Black card 2 feet on right
Light 2 feet on left + Black card 2 feet on right
From my experimenting with angles of light, diffusers, reflectors and absorbers I have come to the conclusion that create the most contrast with in photographs, the light source needs to be as close as possible to the subject without a diffuser and an absorber as close as possible on the opposite side. This technique will expose the features on one side whereas the other side will be extremely dark if not black.
To fill in shadows a reflector with a very shiny surface needs to be placed on the opposite side of the subject to the light source. Again, the flash unit and reflector need to be as close as possible to the subject without a diffuser.
To take a standard portrait with minimal contrast, the flash unit should be diffused, aimed directly at the model and be at the same level as her and the camera. Alternatively, a second flash unit could be used. Each one should be placed either side of the camera and aimed directly at the model, reflectors can then be used opposite each flash unit and slightly behind the model to ensure there's no dark areas on her sides.
To emphasise a subjects shape, creating a silhouette is the best option. To do this, place the flash unit directly behind the subject and shoot towards it.
The form of a subject is it's 3 dimensional quality. To exploit this property, I've found that it's most visible when at least one of the edges are lit. To do this, place the light source to one side, slightly behind and aiming down at about 45 degrees towards the subject. A second flash unit in the same position but on the opposite side will greatly enhance the 3D effect.
